How To Repair A Concrete Floor

Oh no what happens when you find a crack, chip or worse in your concrete floor? You need to repair it. Now you could spend money and get someone in to do that for you but why not do it yourself. It is not that hard. This hub has the steps to repair a concrete floor.

1. Determine the scope of the problem.

2. Use a ruler to determine the length and width of the area to be repaired if the condition does not define itself. This may include bumps, depressions, or ridges. Small areas of shallow surface irregularities may be concealed with a floor leveling compound, rather than chipping out and replacing the actual concrete.

3. Chip the surface of the concrete to remove any high material, and to create a rough surface for the repair cement mixture to bond to. For small jobs, a chipping hammer will be all you need, but larger repairs are much easier with an electric chipping hammer or even a jack hammer.

4. Clean the dust and debris from the area you have chipped. This will allow the new material to have a solid surface to adhere to.

5. Mix the cement/sand material you will use to fill in the area you have chipped out. Mix the dry ingredients first, using a proportion of 1 part Portland Cement (type I or II) to 2 1/2 parts clean masonry sand.

6. Add a latex or polymerized liquid bonding agent to the dry sand/cement mixture, using enough to thoroughly wet the material and bring it to a stiff, plastic consistency. Note that some bonding agents are applied directly to the area to be patched, like glue, so follow the instructions on the manufacturer's label.

7. Wet the area where the patch is to be applied with clean, fresh water. Do not flood the area, but make sure all surfaces are dampened, to assist in adhering the new cement mixture, as well as keeping the mixture from drying too quickly. Dry surfaces simply draw the moisture from the cement mixture too quickly, and will cause it to shrink, and ultimately, to crack.

8. Scoop some of your cement mixture out of your mixing container with a bull-nosed pointing trowel (or other suitable tool). Place the mixture into, or on the patch location, and work it into the space forcefully with the trowel to force out any air bubbles.

9. Level the surface of the wet cement with the trowel, leaving it slightly higher than the adjacent edges, to allow for settling and shrinkage. Allow it to dry and become stiff for an hour or so, depending on humidity and temperature.

10. Trowel the area with a steel finishing trowel when the patch material has become stiff. This will flatten and smooth the surface, and cause cement paste to rise to the surface. Very large, deep areas may be floated with a magnesium float to bring more cement paste up. This paste is the material that forms the surface of the finished slab.

11. Give the area another hour or two so that it sets up, or becomes hard, then finish trowelling it. At this point, you may need to splash a little water on the surface to retard the drying, as well as making the finishing process somewhat easier. Use the edge of your trowel to shave, or scrape off any of your cement mixture which has spread to the adjacent, finished surface.

12. Clean your tools, and remove any excess material.